Yaktrack
THE YAK TRACK: A BIKEPACKING ADVENTURE IN EASTERN TIBET
Last changes: June 2017
Crowdsourced updates welcome!
OVERVIEW
Since the 2008 Olympics, the Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR) has become largely inaccessible to independent cyclists. However, the spirit of Tibet thrives in the historic provinces of Kham and Amdo—collectively known as Eastern Tibet. Home to 60% of the Tibetan population, these regions are arguably where Tibetan culture is best preserved. The Yak Track is a world-class bikepacking route that traverses these high-altitude landscapes via dirt roads, singletracks, and ancient hiking trails. You will encounter the proud Khampa cowboys, nomad women adorned in jade, remote monasteries, and over twenty passes exceeding 4000m.
ROUTE & TERRAIN: THE SOUTH
The journey begins in Waku/Benzila, reachable from either Shangri-La (Zhongdian) or Deqin. From the banks of the Jinsha (Yellow) River, the track heads north on a quiet, narrow asphalt road. After Ciwa, the route transitions to dusty dirt roads over two high passes—ideal for altitude acclimatization.
The real challenge begins after Bomi. A steep climb on a remote track leads to a pass offering breathtaking views of the Chola Mountains. The subsequent descent on singletracks is pure bikepacking bliss. Eventually, you reach Litang (4000m), the rugged "capital" of the Khampas and a vital resupply point.
Continuing north, the path leaves the highway for a high plateau that can be muddy in spring. This leads to Yachen Gar, one of the world’s most significant Buddhist centers where thousands of monks and nuns gather. Entry for foreigners is unpredictable; arriving via these southern trails often yields better luck with local authorities than arriving via the main northern road.
The "Heart of the South" lies west of Yachen Gar. This section follows motorcycle trails and trekking routes through the Chola Mountains toward Dege. Expect six passes, including two grueling hike-a-bike sections. Your reward is the city of Dege—home to a historic printing temple and the first hot shower in days.
ROUTE & TERRAIN: THE NORTH
In northern Sichuan, the jagged peaks give way to a vast, undulating plateau. You will ride almost exclusively above 4000m. The climate is harsh and the weather unpredictable. The route crosses into Qinghai province, reaching Bayiu and the dramatic Niempo Yurtse range.
Niempo Yurtse is a landscape of granite spires and crystal lakes. After a technical singletrack start, you must conquer a full-day hike-a-bike over a high pass. A backpack is essential here to shift weight from your bike to your shoulders. The section concludes with a descent into Aba. Tip: In Aba, you can take a five-hour bus to Barkam (Ma’erkam), which as of 2017 was a reliable spot for visa extensions.
LOGISTICS & INFRASTRUCTURE
TIMING: We recommend riding South to North for better acclimatization and wind conditions. Expect roughly 18 days for the southern section and 10 days for the north.
RESUPPLY: Major hubs (Shangri-La, Litang, Dege, Aba) offer standard hotels, ATMs, and full markets. Smaller villages have limited shops (mostly noodles and biscuits), but homestays are common. You rarely need to carry more than three days of food.
WATER & CAMPING: Water is abundant in streams but must be treated. Wild camping is straightforward and widely available.
Restrictions: Political closures can happen instantly. In 2017, Bayiu and Banma were officially closed to foreigners, though local negotiations are sometimes possible during poor weather.
DIFFICULTY
The Yak Track is an expert-level undertaking. Crossing 23 passes over 4000m—even in the prime windows of April–May or September–October—requires immense stamina. Cold, wind, and snow are constant companions. Most accommodation lacks running water or western amenities. To enjoy this route, you must embrace unpredictability and hardship. If you can, the reward is an unforgettable immersion into one of the world's most culturally fascinating regions.
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