Lady Macdonald ESE Ridge - Ascent
Lady Macdonald ESE Risge (East South East)
Brought 60m rope - you’d get away with a 30m but chances of bailing safely would be minimal.
Straight forward approach down Cougar Creek with a cairn to the left that marks the trail turn off, nothing to note on the trail until a head wall appears to block the way, with a trail extending across the width of it, mainly due to people trying to find the correct route.
The simplest route is down to the left - an awkward step up trends to the right for some bulkier hand and footholds, no more than a few steps it eases into Class 2. Noted a tree with a cord anchor near the top out.
The next obstacle is the 5.5 pitch:
P1 20m - An obvious cairn sits beneath a clean flake - there was another cairn sat below a dirtier looking crack further up the trail - this could of been a directional cairn but considering there was only three cairns the entire day. I doubt it.
Climb up and underneath the large flake, option for gear here or use big positive holds and climb above to reach the flake/crack for decent gear.
Follow the flake/crack and trend left to scambling terrain, walk to the right on easy ground to reach a two bolt anchor with rings. Scramble left of the rings and break through obvious terrain that leads to a nice plateau to rack up and asses the ridge in sight.
Gear placed C4 .4, 2, 1.
The ridge difficulties are largely the first 200m - bulging features make for some exposed and awkward moves but all the holds and feet are there. Support bolts also dotted around. So this area can be pitched out - but would still require gear for anchors/further support.
These moves continue until an obvious tower blocks the way, rated 5.3 it climbs 5 meters before topping out to a nice plateau. Minimal areas to belay a 2nd if using rope here.
Across the plateau a little hiking ends at a stiff 10m Class 5 ramp section - i trended right but the rock does not inspire confidence nor are the holds and feet obvious. I built a janky 3 piece anchor on two fallen microwave sized rocks as I topped out and brought my second up. Perhaps another way is possible but the rock in this area is generally loose.
The rest of the ridge is less technical and exposed than the start and the exit pitch looms ahead.
P2 20m - Reaching a natural end to the ridge, the third cairn of the day signifies the climb. An obvious route to the left through broken rock actually provides decent gear in large cracks. Topping out a single bolt is provided for a belay with a perfect seam allowing for a C4 .3 to make a two piece anchor.
Gear place C4 3, 2, 1
Easy hiking leads to the hikers descent.