High Atlas divide
HIGH ATLAS DIVIDE: BIKEPACKING CHALLENGE IN MOROCCO
Last updated: July 2018
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OVERVIEW
Morocco offers far more than just deserts and coastline; the High Atlas Mountains present a world-class landscape of deeply carved valleys, rocky passes, and barren plateaus. Reaching its zenith at Mount Jebel Toubkal (4,197 m), this range is the ancestral home of the Berbers—a mountain people with a distinct language, script, and culture.
Bikepacking here feels like traveling back in time. While many mountain villages are now connected by rough dirt tracks, the pass crossings between them remain ancient mule tracks. These paths frequently force riders off their bikes for hours of grueling hike-a-bike. The High Atlas Divide is a connoisseur’s route: it crosses the range four times and conquers ten major passes, offering an authentic and hospitable Moroccan experience far removed from the typical tourist trails.
ROUTE & TERRAIN
Starting Points: Marrakesh is the primary hub, with modern buses that allow bike transport. The route officially starts in Tabant in the east. If you have less time, Taddart (on the road to Ouarzazate) serves as an excellent alternative entry or exit point. The track concludes in Asni, 50 km south of Marrakesh.
The Tracks: Infrastructure is developing rapidly, but many "roads" are merely steep, dredged dirt tracks prone to landslides. Once you reach the head of a valley, these roads usually transition into narrow mule tracks.
Hike-a-Bike: Neither the ascents nor the descents on these passes are fully ridable. Pro Tip: Removing your pedals can make pushing the bike significantly easier on narrow, exposed sections.
Key Challenges: You will cross several passes over 3,000 m. The section between Tizi n Tichka and Jebel Toubkal is the most demanding, featuring the heaviest hike-a-bike sections.
Direction: We strongly recommend riding East to West. Note that the slope traverse to the village of Ouigrene is only passable when free of snow.
INFRASTRUCTURE & LOGISTICS
Accommodation: The High Atlas is a well-established trekking region. Most villages have simple guest houses called "Gîtes d'étapes" where you can sleep and enjoy a traditional Tagine. While you can plan a trip without a full tent, we recommend carrying at least a tarp and a sleeping bag for emergencies or as a barrier against basic bedding.
Supplies: Small shops in the main valleys offer essentials like pasta, tomato concentrate, peanuts, and dates. You rarely need to carry more than two days of food.
Water: Water is generally available, especially in spring, but treatment is mandatory due to the presence of goat herds.
Money: Cash is king. ATMs are virtually non-existent outside of Marrakesh, Ouarzazate, and Demnate. Exchange your currency at the airport and keep your receipts; you will need them to exchange Dirhams back at the end of your trip.
DIFFICULTY
This is a physically demanding route that requires a "light and fast" approach.
Terrain: While the eastern section through the Tessout Valley is manageable with light touring gear, the central part near Jebel Toubkal is strictly technical bikepacking terrain.
Packing: Pack as light as possible. Using a backpack to carry some of your gear during hike-a-bike sections will save your strength.
Communication: While guest house "guardians" often speak French, many shepherds and villagers only speak Berber. Be prepared to use sign language and basic French.
The High Atlas Divide is a test of endurance, but it is logistically simplified by the existing trekking infrastructure. It is, above all, a unique and unforgettable journey through a timeless landscape.
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