Ruth Icy 7/20/19 12:45:53 PM
Party of 9, Climbed Ruth Mountain on Day 1, and went down to a camp to SW of Ruth at about 6600 feet. Next morning, left camp at 04:30, went down steep gully (on the left side), bearing toward the south ridge off Ruth, and crossed Ruth-Icy Saddle toward notch in the west ridge of Icy Peak. Immediately after the notch, ascended eastward to base of "water smoothed gully" that leads up to a notch at top of gully. Then leftward to summit of Icy (7062). Reached base of that gully about 7:30 and set a handline for 9 people to use. Rappelled from slings near the top to descend. Got back to camp about 1 PM, and back to cars at Hannegan Pass Trailhead about 7:30 PM.
Mt Logan camp to car-071419
Mid-July. No snow over Easy Pass. No snow in Fisher Creek. No snow on climbing route until well above "Lake 5200" at about 6500'. Good trail over Easy Pass and along Fischer Creek. Some downed logs along Fisher Creek, but not bad.
Mt Logan summit to camp-071319
Starlin's descent from Logan to our camp at the "5200' Lake". This is a pretty clean track that descends directly from the summit, directly down the ridge crest, and back to the upper snow field of the Banded Glacier. Then we mostly followed our up-track. As we descended rocks to the large glacial lake, we found it easier to just drop all the way to the lake shore. It was easier to walk closer to the shore. The rocks and talus up to Christmas Tree Col doesn't have a good path anywhere, but it seemed best by hugging climber's left on the way back up to the col. I'm sure it's better when there is still snow on that slope.
Logan climb camp to summit 7/13/19
Summit day. Left camp 04:15AM. Summitted 12:40PM. Back to camp at 7:15 PM -- 15 hour day. Now snow above camp until about 6,500'. Then on firm snow up to Christmas Tree Col. No snow on the other side of the col, down to the glacial lake. Only a little snow traversing the glacial lake, but mostly on rocks until we got back on snow at about 7,200', crossed another set of rocks, and then roped up for the glacier at 7,800'. Slowed by lack of snow on talus and boulder slopes, but we followed a great line until we got to the summit ridge. The snow didn't go very high up the ridge, and we were supposed to get on the ridge crest itself. Where the snow met the ridge, it looked too steep. Instead we crossed to the south side onto a sandy ledge and tried to make a rising traverse. We should have gotten directly on the ridge crest -- it is so much better climbing and so much more direct with less exposure than the south slope. The south side of the ridge was too exposed and didn't provide good ways to get back up onto the ridge crest. We finally got back up to the crest, gradually curved rightward, found the false summit and looked across a notch to the true summit. It was easy to cross the notch and scramble the true summit.
Dorado Needle Route 1
Starlin's route plan from Eldorado East Ridge to Dorado Needle
Klawatti South Route
Possible route, if the snow is good. Often used by skiers in early season.
Four day trip. Day 1, Drive to trailhead and hike in to Soap Creek camp. Day 2, climb Middle Sister via Hayden Glacier and Northeast ridge. Return to camp. Day 3, hike from Soap Creek to Green Lake on Green Lake Trail. Day 4, climb South Sister via east climbers route and return to camp. Day 5, climb Broken Top and then traverse Tam MacArthur Ridge to second vehicle parked at Three Creeks Lake.
There was snow regularly above 6,500'. The traverse on the north side of Broken Top was all on snow. Most of Tam MacArthur Rim was on snow.
Sisters Broken Top to Three Creek 6/24/19 11:37:02 AM
Brian Starlin's track from the saddle west of Broken Top to Three Creek Lakes. Pretty much all on snow until about 6,500 feet on the way down to Three Creek Lake. Decent plunch stepping and traversing north of Broken Top. Avoided rock fall and possible glacial cracks on Bend Glacier by swinging out to the north (no cracks were visible, but plenty of old rock fall).